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Fixing Suspension Height on D-Drugs

 
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ZoltecRules



Joined: 13 Sep 2006
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:28 pm    Post subject: Fixing Suspension Height on D-Drugs Reply with quote

Yeah I finally made it!



Basically the problem is this. Me and a few others drive on D-Drug Coilovers on our S13's. The car sits way too low and I know my roll center HAS to be above the CG. You can raise up the suspension by preloading the springs considerably (1.5" or so in front, can't go higher than 1" in the rear) which I do not like to do since I lose some suspension travel) but the frame still scrapes horribly when I'm riding on 205/45/R16's or smaller. Basically I have 2 solutions right now:



1. Height adjustable camber plates
KTS makes them for the front. I use them and they work pretty well. Problem is no one makes them for the rear so it would be a custom job. The height adjustable ring plate in the middle seems pretty intimidating. I like this idea because I can adjust it as I see fit. The rear's don't need to have camber adjustment though since it can be done through the RUCA's

2. Upper mount spacers
Similar to bolt on or slip on spacers (depending on thickness), they would slip over the current mounting plates and increase the distance between the mounting hole and damper tube. Basically either machining something to slip over the current plate (along with new studs on the plate) or bolting something over the plate and cutting off any addtional thread (if there's any).

Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, concerns?
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Wiisass
Head suspension nerd


Joined: 09 Nov 2005
Posts: 131
Location: Philly

PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well one thing first. You said becuase the car is low, you think that the roll center is above the CG? It's probably a good deal below ground. If your strut and your LCA are seperated by more than 90* then the instant center will actually be on the outside of the wheel. I mean that if you're looking from front view and when everything is the way it's supposed to be the instant center for the left wheel is outside of the right wheel, but once you pass that 90* mark the instant center for the left wheel will be outside of the left wheel and pretty high up in the air. When you connect all the lines, the roll center will be a good bit below ground.

But on the issue of over lowering, I was thinking a spacer up top would be the best bet. You would just have to take a guess on how much higher you would want to be and then have something machined. The only big issue would be how you wanted to deal with attaching it to the chassis. You could press out the studs that are in the d-drug mounts and run longer hardware. Or you could have something like a female bolt made. I'd probably go with removing the old stuff and running new longer stuff if you went this route.

About the KTS mounts, they look nice, but i haven't dealt with them personally so I can't really say how they are. If they're easy to adjust then it might be a good way to go. Do you have any idea how much extra height you could get from them? And for the rears, I guess you could copy the design and do something similar or just use the spacers. Having something similar to the KTS made up might not be too cost effective.

Do you know how much height you would want to add? I'm guessing at least enough to take out what preload you have in the spring right now. And then maybe some to get the car to sit higher?

Tim
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R&D, damper development and fabrication.

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ZoltecRules



Joined: 13 Sep 2006
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I'm looking at about 1-2 inches...adjustability would be nice like the KTS's.
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Wiisass
Head suspension nerd


Joined: 09 Nov 2005
Posts: 131
Location: Philly

PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will the KTS mounts get you enough adjustability?

You could also have something cut at different thicknesses so you could essentially shim the upper mount. Like have a 1" thick piece and then a couple 1/4" think pieces so you can get it where you want it with the upper mount and then fine tune with the spring perch.

And if you wanted to make something for the rear it probably wouldn't be too hard. You could just have a boss with threads on the inside on the plate that gets bolted to the chassis and then a threaded sleeve that houses a bearing and attaches to the shock. You could even space that out so you aren't trying to get the 1"-2" adjustability just out of the threaded part, but you just use the threaded part to fine tune and then can set your preload independent of your length.

Tim
_________________
TIP Engineering
Just put the TIP in.
R&D, damper development and fabrication.

jrud@tipengr.com
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